They die hard !
Once my staple diet of being an ex-pat, was blogging every sunday without fail – well here i am again.
It is fair to say i have the stoke tonight. Due to south coast swell, scuba was greatly reduced so i got the day off. I used this well to my advantage. Up at 06.30 this morning and headed to mareta. Small wave with no-one in, ideal! I did slip up though and forgot my PSP (pre-surf poo) so had to head back to the ranch to let one go. After that, it was on. Hit the surf at 07.30 on the left at Mareta and had it all to myself until i got out just after 9 !!!! There is nothing worse in the world than laying on your stomach for an hour when you need a dump, especially when you have to get in and out of the spak vest unaided.
Mooched around for the rest of the day, fired up the barbie for lunch and then tonight, with the 10´2´´ and the 9´6´´ charger on the roof i headed back to Mareta. Small and mushy, the sun was setting. I was in two minds whether to do it or not when i bumped into Chris from the dive school. He too was in two minds but i pointed out that i had two big ones on the roof (and i am not talking about Lana’s tits). The temptation was too much for him.
First wave, in all of my excitement i forgot the rules………
1. furthest out
2. nearest the curl
3. first to their feet
I dropped in on Chris. He tried to bail but wasn’t used to big boards and long leashes. I felt the drag as my 9 incher spiked through the rail on his (mine really) board. Shit happens i guess – reminiscent of the old days at Barriga when Alex Faggotpants pulled a similar move and i cracked the 8´6´´ groovy as i tried to spin my nose over his head in a desperate attempt to avoid a collision.
We surfed until dark and a little bit more, until the tide had dropped to low and the wave just wasn’t working any more – man, that was fun. I havent had that much fun since i set fire to the old railway embankment when i was 10 years old! And remember – its August, the place is full of tourists. Fortunately for me, they dont have the sense to figure out the tide times and know the best time to go to the beach, they just go there all day, waste all of their energy on shit waves and then go home just as i am arriving – praise the lord for fuckwits !!
There is one downside though. As the water temp was 22ºc, i was in my shorts. This posed a problem. Erect nipples and surf wax with impregnated sand – close to bleeding but not quite – at least all the nipple hair and chest hair have been freshly plucked, next time i may go naked again and get the ball bag silky smooth too!
So tomorrow, i might go for more of the same, i havent heard from the dive school so i must assume there is nothing on tomorrow either and if there is still south swell, just as you groms are getting up for work, i will be in my shorts, surfing the atlantic once more!
Life is still good, even at 40 !
So i think i have waffled enough for now, let me drop a few hello’s before i leave
Steve & Nic
Max – as always
Lexa – could i ever forget
Uwe – i have more damage !!
Kati – first time, but she is always so happy, cheerful and beautiful
Andrè – sort yourself out you pissed up twat – i dont appreciate head ons at 07.15 on sunday mornings
Viscount & Van Pelt – now officially an item
Jones – you prick !!