I have just scored my third sucessive day at Armado with near perfect longboard conditions.
I am so completely knackered that i might fall asleep while i am writing.
I love longboard waves for a couple of reasons…
1. I ride a long board – doh!
2. shortboard tossers can’t catch the wave or they can but catch it much later than me so i have priority.
It always makes me chuckle. I get in the water where no-one is. As soon as they see me standing up, they paddle over and try for my waves. They always seem too stupid to notice the size of my board and try for everything but catch nothing – while i on the other hand can catch all of them!!
For the uneducated, the rules of priority go like this
1st. Furthest out
2nd. Nearest the curl
3rd. First to their feet (but don’t call it until you are on your feet)
After my mamouth third consecutive session, i chugged home in the car along my favourite stretch of road surrounded by pine and eucalyptus trees, the sun beating through the gaps, air con on full and some funny tunes. It was one of those blissful moments that we all work so hard to find.
I stopped in Vila do Bispo for a coffee and a mamouth piece of chocolate cake – life’s been good to me so far!
Yesterday finished in perfection too. After my surf session, i met Frannie at the beach bar on Tonel. We sat sipping Sangria as the day finished, just a shame the bar closed before sunset.
Tomorrow, i am hoping for more of the same, only tomorrow night will end with a sunset and Marple!