dont be put off by my confusion though, it is a seriously excellent film, one that you really must see.
on a less confused note, last nights surf left me feeling completely stoked – almost like never before!
it was just one of those awesome sessions made better by the fact that i was in the water with just one other person. The beach, i cannot tell you about, a local beach , just for locals and i aim to keep it that way, but for now, lets just call the place ‘crazy waves’
it doesnt work all of the time but when it does – it is one kick ass place to be. the sea bottom slopes gently upward to help with big long rides, excellent if you ride a long board like me, but the real beauty is that it A frames so pick your spot and then choose left or right! If you are patient, after every set comes a crazy wave that crosses the beach diagonally on a right hander, this has to be one of the wierdest sensations ever!
so i was there for an hour while all of the grommets were fighting over slop at mareta. the place is just awesome. even had some guy turn up in a RIB with a surfboard to save him paddling out.
as i drove away, i was in heaven. i remember thinking ‘i want to be here for ever’ it was just one of those never forget moments. the sun was almost down, i was in my shorts, wet hair blowing in the wind, brazilian music on the stereo and a great big smile on my face.
you just gotta love portugal!