todays surf session

only half a day at work today, left at lunchtime.  headed home to do some decorating.  i needed some paint and after checking the local hardware stores, remembered it was a bank holiday so they were all closed (thats why we had the day off).
 
so what more could i do???
 
SURF!!!
 
headed to my local break, ponte ruiva. tricky to get to, especially if it is wet, a mud and rock road weaves down the hillside to the beach below.
 
i stopped on the second terrace and what a sight!!!  a beautiful wave in the centre of the bay, peeling left and right and only 1 other person in the water. maybe just over a metre.
 
lobbed my wet suit on as quick as possible and lumped both boards down to the beach with me.  i then felt a churn in my stomache – i hadnt had my pre surf poo!  oh bugger.
 
so i figured it would either get dark, i would get cold, or i would need a poo before i would stop surfing.
 
tried the longboard first, been having a real lame spell on that.  had three nice rides before i legged it back to the beach for the mini mal.
 
the tide was dropping and the wave was changing as the water dropped back beyond the sand bank. i reckonded maybe another 30 minuites and it would all be over.
 
5 very calm rides on the mal and then i saw the rain clouds moving in.  reckoned if it rained, i would never get back up the track and there is no phone signal there to call for help so i decided it was best to leg it.
 
grabbed my boards and headded to the car, loaded up, stripped off and drove out in just my towel.
 
i had been in the water for just over an hour, paddled hard and tried both boards, some nice rides, nothing too manic and nothing too classy – i was happy.  and to think, if the shops were open, i would have been painting instead.
 
 
charlie says –
 
always tell your parents where you are surfing
never accept surf from strangers
 

Have a moan - the beers are on me !!

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