only half a day at work today, left at lunchtime. headed home to do some decorating. i needed some paint and after checking the local hardware stores, remembered it was a bank holiday so they were all closed (thats why we had the day off).
so what more could i do???
headed to my local break, ponte ruiva. tricky to get to, especially if it is wet, a mud and rock road weaves down the hillside to the beach below.
i stopped on the second terrace and what a sight!!! a beautiful wave in the centre of the bay, peeling left and right and only 1 other person in the water. maybe just over a metre.
lobbed my wet suit on as quick as possible and lumped both boards down to the beach with me. i then felt a churn in my stomache – i hadnt had my pre surf poo! oh bugger.
so i figured it would either get dark, i would get cold, or i would need a poo before i would stop surfing.
tried the longboard first, been having a real lame spell on that. had three nice rides before i legged it back to the beach for the mini mal.
the tide was dropping and the wave was changing as the water dropped back beyond the sand bank. i reckonded maybe another 30 minuites and it would all be over.
5 very calm rides on the mal and then i saw the rain clouds moving in. reckoned if it rained, i would never get back up the track and there is no phone signal there to call for help so i decided it was best to leg it.
grabbed my boards and headded to the car, loaded up, stripped off and drove out in just my towel.
i had been in the water for just over an hour, paddled hard and tried both boards, some nice rides, nothing too manic and nothing too classy – i was happy. and to think, if the shops were open, i would have been painting instead.
charlie says –
always tell your parents where you are surfing
never accept surf from strangers