Today i got it right…..

After what i can only describe as a shite call this morning for Amado, i made complete amends by heading to Arrifana at 16.30 this afternoon.
Busy as you like with groms but it is a stunning setting to surf in your shorts, so i did………result!!!
I love getting to my feet first and whistling everyone else off the wave, it gives me so much satisfaction, even if i do completely fudge the wave afterwards.
Last night i watched a little of Fred Dibnah – The ups and downs of chimneys.  You have to watch this guy sticking his ladders up the side of a 200 foot chimney with nothing more than a chisel, hemp rope, metal spikes and some old wooden ladders – i was shitting myself just watching the dude, he was so chilled out sitting atop his ladders talking to the camera at close to 200 feet up.
After that i watched a couple of chapters of singlefin:yellow – all i can say is watch it.  It is right up there with endless summer for quality – amazing footwork on those big old boards, my nipples go hard and i shiver when i watch it.
Tonight, i am gonna knock the top off a few beers with fred!

Have a moan - the beers are on me !!

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