curiously , i managed two days at zavial, everywhere else was so messy.
spent two and a half hours in yesterday afternoon and another two hours in today. still not cold but will be getting there soon, still a big contrast to what is happening in the uk. i am still surfing in a 3/2 and not feeling the cold.
tried the 9.1 but still struggling with that, switched to the 8.6 and had a ball yesterday afternoon, with kati at zavial. it wasnt big it wasnt perfect but it was still fun
today i watched some tossers getting ready to surf. Zavial was the only place working today so you get all the wankers in one place.
they come to the beach in their flash cars, expensive wet suits and boards, do a yoga warm up for 20 minutes on the beach then when thet get in the water, they flap around like a plastic bag, no skill at all. always leaves me wondering why they went through the rigmorole of preparation in the first place…..easy really, too many fashionable twats buying surf gear. still, it does make me laugh watching them constantly caught on the inside getting mashed, and their faces are a real picture as you surf straight at them!
next surf check will be tuesday lunchtime, so tune in again for more news. everyone is talking about more storms so maybe wont make it , but we will see.