hit tonel at 7,30 looking for a surf this morning. the wave wasnt quite enough to suit up and go in, so i just stood for a while, with the sun on my back and a slight offshore breeze, looking out to sea and watching the small waves hit the sand.
of course, that made me think about all of my chums in the uk and i wondered what you all would be doing at 7,30 am.
i still think i have the better life.
much talk about a fresh swell coming in for the weekend but i try not to listen to all the would be forecasters – the only real way to tell is to go to the beaches yourself.
will check again at lunchtime to see if there is anything woth getting wet for.